Crete

The Mediterranean Sea was the gravitational field of European, some argue world history for hundreds of years, and it was a vivid one. Empires have fought over essentially every little bit of land in and around the sea, and few places have a more turbulent history than Crete, Greece’s largest island.

Settled since the Stone Age it was the site of the first highly sophisticated civilisation in Europe: the Minoans. They built palaces and temples when the rest of us were still trying to find our way back to the caves. The Minoans had real infrastructure, art, and an enormous trade network, and they had Knossos, a huge palace compley south of the Cretan capital Heraklion, excavated by Sir Arthur Evans at the beginning of the 20^th Century.

After the Minoans there were plenty of other cultures and civilisations ruling the island, including the Mycenaen, Doric, Greek and of course Roman empires, the Venetians, and the Ottomans, and all of them left little reminders scattered across Crete: palaces, temples, mosques, fortifications, and country houses.

When foreign cultures invade the island these days it is usually not to claim ownership, but to enjoy a few of the 300 days of sunshine and the gorgeous scenery, ranging from sandy beaches to fertile fields 800 m (2600 ft) above sea level.

When visiting the island your first stop most likely is Heraklion, the capital. Though small (population: 140.000) this place has a great buzz to it, with near-oriental markets, trendy boutiques, cheerful locals, and great restaurants. As far as sights go you will not get bored here, there is plenty to sea. Just start your walk by the Venetian fortress guarding the harbour (Koules) and work your way through noisy streets to St. Minas Cathedral, surrounded by a tranquil square dipped in pink blossoms. To further your historical education (and your understanding of Crete) visit the archaeological museum, housing simply the best and most comprehensive exhibition on the Minoan culture anywhere. Apart from the Minoans the museum also covers later times, though if you are looking for recent history, you can always check out the resistance museum, drawing a clear picture of the Greek resistance against Nazi occupation.

One of Crete’s biggest assets is the phenomenal countryside. The Samaria Gorge, at almost 10 miles the longest in Europe, is spectacular and should definitely be visited if physical conditions allow it. Though long this is an easy hike, as the entrance (south of Chania) is also the highest point you will pass. It’s downhill from there, and the trek is beautiful. The exit is on the south coast, where ferries take you back to the nearest town.

One of the most secluded spots on the island is the palm beach of Preveli on the south coast not far from the small village of Plakias from where boats take visitors to the beach. This remote spot is the mouth of a spectacular gorge and if you have a closer look around you will spot old ruins of chapels and monasteries long abandoned on the cliffs.

A different kind of landscape, though no less picturesque, can be found on the Lasithi Plateau, a green haven which is covered in flowers and white windmill wings during springtime. This area has been used for agriculture for over 5000 years, the windmills used to power water pumps, and though they have long been redundant the farmers put the sails on them every year to provide the tourists with this romantic photo motif.